FNSL6R billet Forged six-piston calipers with 13”-14” rotors deliver the ultimate combination for braking power and style in this group of kits engineered for traditional non-ABS spindles on American muscle cars and vintage rods. Built exclusively for 17” and larger wheels, SL6 kits enhance tire and suspension upgrades on all types of custom show and high performance dual-purpose street and track machines. A full range of options for caliper finishes and rotor designs are guaranteed to catch the eye of the most discriminating enthusiast while providing optimized brake performance for every individual application.

Though we’re big fans of drum brakes in the rear, we understand that rear discs brings some advantages, especially in track scenarios. But there’s a reason we like the stock brakes: the rear axle flexes. It flexes a lot. I don’t care if you have a Currie unit from a Sherman tank, the rear axles will flex. This has the effect of pushing the rotors (which are mounted to the axles) around within the caliper. So instead of having the pads gently riding the rotor, there’s a gap. This gap has to be filled when pushing the brake, which makes the whole system feel inconsistent and scary.

So what do guys do? They buy a bigger master (which moves more fluid at a lower pressure, resulting in even worse brake feel), they back it up with a brake booster (don’t get me started) and then they start asking about firewall reinforcements because they have to put so much effort into the brake pedal.

We want to use discs in the rear, so how do we overcome this problem? We opt for a floating caliper like the one found in the Wilwood D154 setup. The floating caliper effectively moves with the rear, minimizing the air gap that’s naturally created. Frankly, it’s the only rear setup we really like.

Wilwood’s D154 Rear Caliper Kit offers a direct bolt-on 2-piston replacement with a floating caliper design, helping to minimize pad knock back and improve brake feel. Forged billet aluminum bodies, stainless steel pistons, and competition style high-temperature seals put an end to the rust, bore pitting, and seal failures that plague the OE caliper design. D154 calipers provide low-maintenance performance and a huge weight savings with high temperature reliability for the street and track. D52 calipers mount in the stock location over stock rotors; use the original style OE D154 brake pads and an OE M10-1.5 banjo bolt brake line mounting. Calipers can be used with most wheels that clear the OE calipers.

We also include a set of our big pin spindles in this kit. It’s a worthwhile upgrade that helps to ensure a solid foundation for your new braking system. This kit comes with DRP Hub Bearing Spacers as well, a small but significant addition.

For pads, we include Wilwood’s BP-20, which provides increased friction levels with extended temperature range over BP-10. BP-20 has a progressive response rate as pedal pressure and temperatures increase to provide confident, repeated stops and outstanding modulation characteristics. The unique metallic composite formulation provides an aggressive feel without the harsh noise, high rotor abrasion, and extreme dust levels associated with high metallic based compounds.

This kit includes:

• Wilwood Superlite 6 Front Brakes & Rotors
• Wilwood D154 Rear Brakes & Rotors
• MMI’s Recommended Brake Pads
• Big Pin Spindles
• Wilwood Mustang Specific Master Cylinder
• Stainless Steel Front and Rear Flex Lines
• DRP Bearing Spacers

The post 64-73 Mustang MOD 1 Complete Brake Kit appeared first on Mike Maier Inc.

Though we’re big fans of drum brakes in the rear, we understand that rear discs brings some advantages, especially in track scenarios. But there’s a reason we like the stock brakes: the rear axle flexes. It flexes a lot. I don’t care if you have a Currie unit from a Sherman tank, the rear axles will flex. This has the effect of pushing the rotors (which are mounted to the axles) around within the caliper. So instead of having the pads gently riding the rotor, there’s a gap. This gap has to be filled when pushing the brake, which makes the whole system feel inconsistent and scary.

So what do guys do? They buy a bigger master (which moves more fluid at a lower pressure, resulting in even worse brake feel), they back it up with a brake booster (don’t get me started) and then they start asking about firewall reinforcements because they have to put so much effort into the brake pedal.

We want to use discs in the rear, so how do we overcome this problem? We opt for a floating caliper like the one found in the Wilwood D154 setup. The floating caliper effectively moves with the rear, minimizing the air gap that’s naturally created. Frankly, it’s the only rear setup we really like.

Based on years of firsthand experience, we’ve found this combination of parts to deliver the feel most customers are looking for on the street and autocross (with seldom track use). Included is a set of Wilwood Dynapro 6 piston calipers and rotors, a set of Wilwood D154 calipers and rotors, our big pin spindles, stainless front brake lines, and a 15/16″ Wilwood tandem master cylinder and proportioning valve specific to early Mustangs.

If you heard “6-piston” and immediately thought race car, you’re not alone. But we don’t recommend this caliper because “race car”, rather the simple fact that six pistons help to maximize brake pad longevity and reduce heat. It’s that simple. We also include a set of our big pin spindles in this kit. It’s a worthwhile upgrade that helps to ensure a solid foundation for your new braking system. We also include a set of DRP Hub Bearing Spacers, a small but significant addition.

For pads, we include Wilwood’s BP-20, which provides increased friction levels with extended temperature range over BP-10. BP-20 has a progressive response rate as pedal pressure and temperatures increase to provide confident, repeated stops and outstanding modulation characteristics. The unique metallic composite formulation provides an aggressive feel without the harsh noise, high rotor abrasion, and extreme dust levels associated with high metallic based compounds.

If you’re looking for a proper upgrade to your early Mustang’s braking system and want to skip the guesswork, MOD Complete is the way to go for a complete system upgrade.

This kit includes:

• Wilwood Dynapro 6 Brake Calipers & Rotors
• Wilwood D154 Rear Brake Calipers & Rotors
• MMI’s Recommended Pads
• Big Pin Spindles
• DRP Hub Bearing Spacers
• Wilwood Mustang Specific Master Cylinder
• Stainless Steel Front & Rear Flex Lines

The post 64-73 Mustang MOD Complete Brake Kit appeared first on Mike Maier Inc.

The Mustang Panhard Rod helps lock down the side-to-side movement of the leaf springs, and allows for the driver to feel exactly when the rear of the car wants to break loose. During cornering, the leaf springs and bushings bear the side load of the chassis. This can flex the leaf springs up to 2” side to side giving a very unsettled feel during cornering (not to mention the potential tire rub). The MOD panhard rod kit takes this side-loading off the leaf springs and applies it to the panhard rod. Since there is no more side movement, you get immediate response to your inputs without waiting to see how the car might react.

By adjusting the panhard rod, you have the ability to further tune the rear roll center. This effectively allows for raising and lowering rear end grip when hard cornering. Pair this with a set of our leaf springs and a good shock, and you have an awesome, affordable setup that installs easily and performs excellently.

This kit includes

• MOD Panhard Rod Assembly
• Note: This listing does NOT include the optional rear sway bar. Click here for the complete kit.

MOD Panhard Rod features:

• Vertical adjustment on both chassis and axle brackets for tuning
• Unique leaf spring plate design with panhard rod mount and sway bar mount
• Weld in chassis bracket
• Bolt in axle bracket with shock mount
• Sheetmetal drivers side spring plate with shock & sway bar mount

Don’t panhard rods move the axle side to side and isn’t that bad?

Yes, the shorter the panhard rod is, the more the axle is thrust side to side. This is why we make our panhard rods 35” long. The misalignment is roughly 1/8”. Considering the flex of the tire and the previous 2” movement, it becomes a non-issue.

Why did you choose to do a panhard rod vs. a Watts link?

Watts links are wonderful but we took into consideration multiple aspects when deciding on the panhard rods, including price, function, installation, exhaust, roll center height and tuning ability. When installing a Watts, it is difficult to mount it low enough. The lower the lateral controls device (Watts or panhard rod), the lower the roll center. The lower the roll center, the more the car can lean on the outer spring driving the tire into the ground. Manufacturing a Watts link also is a lot more costly. This does not help the budget for the rest of the car.

Chassis tuning is also a little simpler with the panhard rod. To raise and lower the roll center (panhard rod or Watts pivot) dictates how much leverage the chassis has on the outer springs. However, when raising and lowering the roll center, you want to keep the arms level. If the panhard rod or Watts arms are not level, they can input a jacking force into the chassis (not always the best thing). This can free up or tighten up the car upon steering input. The panhard rod is the easiest to keep level when adjusting.

Running exhaust is also easier with the panhard rod assembly. Making our lives easy is an important part of having a good time with our cars.

The post 64-73 Mustang MOD Panhard Rod appeared first on Mike Maier Inc.

FNSL6R billet Forged six-piston calipers with 13”-14” rotors deliver the ultimate combination for braking power and style in this group of kits engineered for traditional non-ABS spindles on American muscle cars and vintage rods. Built exclusively for 17” and larger wheels, SL6 kits enhance tire and suspension upgrades on all types of custom show and high performance dual-purpose street and track machines. A full range of options for caliper finishes and rotor designs are guaranteed to catch the eye of the most discriminating enthusiast while providing optimized brake performance for every individual application.

We also include a set of our big pin spindles in this kit. It’s a worthwhile upgrade that helps to ensure a solid foundation for your new braking system. This kit comes with DRP Hub Bearing Spacers as well, a small but significant addition.

For pads, we include Wilwood’s BP-20, which provides increased friction levels with extended temperature range over BP-10. BP-20 has a progressive response rate as pedal pressure and temperatures increase to provide confident, repeated stops and outstanding modulation characteristics. The unique metallic composite formulation provides an aggressive feel without the harsh noise, high rotor abrasion, and extreme dust levels associated with high metallic based compounds.

This kit includes:

• Wilwood Superlite 6 Front Brakes
• MMI’s Recommended Brake Pads
• Big Pin Spindles
• Wilwood Mustang Specific Master Cylinder
• Stainless Steel Front Flex Lines
• DRP Bearing Spacers

The post 64-73 Mustang MOD 1 Front Brake Kit appeared first on Mike Maier Inc.

If you heard “6-piston” and immediately thought race car, you’re not alone. But we don’t recommend this caliper because “race car”, rather the simple fact that six pistons help to maximize brake pad longevity and reduce heat. It’s that simple. We also include a set of our big pin spindles in this kit. It’s a worthwhile upgrade that helps to ensure a solid foundation for your new braking system.

For pads, we include Wilwood’s BP-20, which provides increased friction levels with extended temperature range over BP-10. BP-20 has a progressive response rate as pedal pressure and temperatures increase to provide confident, repeated stops and outstanding modulation characteristics. The unique metallic composite formulation provides an aggressive feel without the harsh noise, high rotor abrasion, and extreme dust levels associated with high metallic based compounds.

Though this kit does not address the rear brakes (we’re actually big fans of drums in the rear) we do offer a complete kit as well with Wilwood’s D154 calipers and rotors. So if you’re looking for a proper upgrade to your early Mustang’s braking system and want to skip the guesswork, MOD is the way to go.

This kit includes:

• Wilwood Dynapro 6 Brake Calipers
• MMI’s Recommended Pads
• DRP Hub Bearing Spacers
• Big Pin Spindles
• Wilwood Mustang Specific Master Cylinder
• Stainless Steel Front Flex Lines

The post 64-73 Mustang MOD Front Brake Kit appeared first on Mike Maier Inc.

This kit includes

• MOD 165# Leaf Springs
• Our updated panhard design found here.
• JRi Rear Shocks
• Fabricated Spring Plates
• Polyurethane Front Eyelet Bushings
• Rubber Shackle Kit
• 7/16″ U-Bolts
• Sway Bar (Optional – not recommended for only street-driven Mustangs)

Add a set of lowering blocks to help bring the rear down and dial in the stance.(Optional-Recommended for 1964.5-1966 Mustangs. Available in 1/2″ and 1″)

Please note: these kits are made to order and per your specifications. Upon order we will contact you to confirm details and provide you an estimate build time. Shipping costs will be added to your order upon completion.

The post 64-73 Mustang MOD 1 Rear Suspension Kit with JRi appeared first on Mike Maier Inc.

If you’re looking for the ultimate front suspension for your early Mustang, this is it. By completely redesigning the front suspension from the ground up, we’ve been able to extract modern-day performance and ride quality while accommodating larger power plants like the 2011+ Coyote (or even a NASCAR engine if that’s your thing).

This is the same suspension you’ll find under the front of Mike Maier’s Ol’ Blue, the shop’s development car and winner of everything from Optima to Goodguys. Designed for the track yet comfortable on the street, this suspension has been refined and improved to create a no-compromise option for those who want only the best.

Make no mistake, the install is involved, but the improved performance is worth it. We start by removing the original shock towers and replacing them with our MOD 2 designs built to create maximum space in the engine bay while maintaining the strength Ford designers originally intended. Constructed out of thicker gauge metal than similar kits, these are designed to keep the shock mounted much higher (and closer to the original location) to enhance overall shock travel, resulting in better suspension geometry and performance.

We then replace the lower control arm mount with a new design that locates it in the most effective position and helps to tie the rest of the kit together. As fans of adjustability, we installed our keyed mounting points, offering you the ability to raise or lower the mount for the lower control arm resulting in improved alignment specs. Keeping the longest control arms possible combined with vertical control arm mounting adjustability ensures that you will have the best combination possible. Of course we built in our preferred JRi Racing shocks (with your choice of adjustability and Hyperco springs.

Tying the shock towers and lower control arm mounts together you’ll find a tubular crossmember designed to clear a front sump Coyote oil pan like those from Canton or Moroso.

As for steering, the kit is designed to use your stock steering box along with our MOD centerlink. So why not go with a typical rack-and-pinion type setup so common these days? It all has to do with steering geometry, or the math behind why your car feels twitchy and unpredictable instead of solid and confidence inspiring. Unfortunately, feel often takes a backseat to packaging constraints (and consumers who say “I want that” without really being sure why). What everyone seems to be missing is that most rack and pinion systems actually make the original steering geometry worse. If you wish to upgrade to power steering, we can make that happen by adding on our power steering kit. If you’re looking to drop a Coyote in, we offer a Coyote specific pump and reservoir that’s works extremely well with this setup.

The Complete MOD 2 Front Suspension Kit Includes:

• MOD 2 Shock Towers
• MOD 2 Lower Control Arm & Engine Mounts
• MOD 2 Crossmember
• MOD 2 Upper Control Arms
• MOD 2 Lower Control Arms
• MOD 2 Adjustable Strut Rods
• MOD 2 Centerlink (with tie rods, & bump steer adjuster stud)
• JRi Shocks (non-adjustable, single, or double)
• Hyperco Springs
• Hardware & Alignment Keys

To complete the front suspension, we also highly recommend our front sway bar and a set of big pin spindles. Or if you’re really ready to commit, our Apex Package has everything you need.

Please note: these kits are made to order and per your specifications. Upon order we will contact you to confirm details and provide you an estimate build time. Shipping costs will be added to your order upon completion. 

The post 64-70 Mustang MOD 2 Front Suspension Kit appeared first on Mike Maier Inc.

When you want the best rear suspension for your early Mustang, you go with the MOD 2 rear from MMI. Found under cars like MMI’s Ol’ Blue, Vaughn Gitten Jr.’s 70 Fastback, and even the 69 Anvil Mustang from The Fast & Furious 6, this suspension is built to win.

Originally designed to cruise on the street then destroy at the track, this suspension has seen years of refinement and development. Comprised of several components, this kit most notably moves the coilover from under the body up into the trunk using a cantilever-type setup more typically found on Formula 1 cars. Not only is this generally badass, but it allows us to run a full size coilover without worrying about packaging it under the car.

We’ve also designed this package to be minimally invasive, requiring only a small amount of cutting (a couple inches) to your trunk floor and the boxing of about an inch of your rear frame rails on either side. Try that with any of those other kits on the market.

In short, this kit offers classic Mustang owners an incredibly balanced, strong, tune-able system that’s as comfortable on the street as it is on the track. We’ve installed this kit in countless cars and made several refinements over the years and it continues to be a defining suspension for us at MMI.

This built-to-order kit will be crafted to your desired specifications and needs. Please allow additional time for creation and shipping. Following your order, we will be in touch to confirm your specifics and details. 

MOD 2 Rear Suspension Kit Includes:

• MOD Rocker Cradle System with tune-able pushrods
• JRi Coilovers (available in non-adjustible, single, double, or double with remote reservoir)
• 9″ full floating rear end housing with solid 31 spline axles
• Updated MOD Panhard Rod Kit with MOD adjustable rear sway bar
• MOD Subframe connectors
• MOD Torque Arm with built in pinion angle adjustment
• Adjustable lower control arm mounts
• Adjustable lower control arms

MOD Rocker Cradle System with Tune-able Pushrods & JRi Shocks

The rocker cradle is the beating heart of our MOD 2 rear system. In trying to design a best-in-class rear suspension for an early Mustang we kept running into a problem: how do you fit a full-size coilover under the rear of the car while keeping ride height low? We didn’t want to compromise on the coilover size – that’s what delivers awesome ride quality around town, while also allowing us to get aggressive at the track. We wanted to be able to go over a set of railroad tracks with a coffee in our hand. Our solution came from the race car world. By attaching the rear housing to a pair of pushrods, then cantilevering them to our best-in-the-game JRi shocks mounted horizontally in the trunk, we were able to accomplish our goal all while creating a truly kickass looking system. Even better, the adjustable pushrods and trunk mounted coilovers give us easy access to dial in the rear suspension to a preferred feel or driving mode.

Ford 9″ Full Floating Housing with MOD Additions and Solid 31 Spline Axles

We needed a rear end setup that wouldn’t quit. Something we could beat on all day then drive home on. So we turned to an old favorite, the Ford 9″. But this isn’t your average 9″. Instead we opted to go with full floating axles for increased safety, strength, and easy repair. Your Speedway Engineering housing will come with the necessary tabs, brackets, caliper brackets, and brake lines holders already welded on. Though this kit does not include a differential, we’d recommend one of those available from GearFX.

MOD Panhard Rod Kit with Adjustable Rear Sway Bar

The Mustang Panhard Rod  and Adjustable Rear Sway Bar helps lock down the lateral movement of the rear end, and allows for the driver to feel exactly when the rear of the car wants to break loose. Plus it gives us a way to adjust roll center in a package that’s easily tuned and installed, without having to resort to a full Watts link.

By including an adjustable rear sway bar, we’re getting the ability to further dial in the feel that we’re looking for. Adjusting the bar allows for finite tweaks to rear body roll and overall grip. The panhard rod gives you the ability to further tune the rear roll center. This effectively allows for raising and lowering rear end grip when hard cornering.

MOD Torque Arm with Adjustable Pinion Angle and MOD Subframe Connectors

Starting with a set of our MOD subframe connectors, we include a crossmember that acts as the front point for the torque arm setup. This beefy part keeps the rear end tied into the car, full improving the strength and feel. We connect the torque arm to the front of the rear diff with a plate and adjustable rods that allow you to dial in the exact driveline angle you’re after.

Brakes are not included with this kit, though we can pair a Wilwood kit with it. If you’re looking for the full package, check out both our Corkscrew and Apex Packages.

Please note: these kits are made to order and per your specifications. Upon order we will contact you to confirm details and provide you an estimate build time. Shipping costs will be added to your order upon completion.

The post 64-73 Mustang MOD 2 Rear Suspension appeared first on Mike Maier Inc.

Our complete kit includes new performance tuned MOD 165# leaf springs, our panhard rod kit with an optional rear sway bar for adjustability, Bilstein performance shocks, all new bushings, shackles, and U-Bolts. Add a set of lowering blocks to help bring the rear down and dial in the stance. These pieces are all designed to help keep the rear planted and stable, while offering you the flexibility to dial in the feel you’re looking for on those weekend autocross or track events.

Installation wise, we’ve aimed for a package that is minimally invasive. The only required welding is the panhard rod bracket, the rest are bolt in parts. Some changes may be required to your exhaust if you have an over-the-axle setup. No cutting up floor pans, changing mounting points, or even welding to your rear axle. This kit is designed to perform without making massive changes without having to cut up your car and works with both 8″ and 9″ rear ends.

If you’re looking to upgrade the shock to an even better option, this kit is available with JRi Shocks.

The MOD 1 Rear Suspension Kit Includes

• MOD 165# Leaf Springs
• Our updated Panhard Rod Kit (found here) with Optional Adjustable Sway Bar (not recommended for street only cars)
• Bilstein Rear Shocks
• MOD Leaf Spring Plates
• Polyurethane Front Eyelet Bushings
• Rubber Shackle Kit
• 7/16″ U-Bolts
• Lowering Blocks (Optional-Recommended for 1964.5-1966 Mustangs)

Please note: these kits are made to order and per your specifications. Upon order we will contact you to confirm details and provide you an estimate build time. Shipping costs will be added to your order upon completion.

The post 64-73 Mustang MOD 1 Rear Suspension Kit appeared first on Mike Maier Inc.

The Mustang Panhard Rod  and Rear Sway Bar Kit helps lock down the side-to-side movement of the leaf springs, and allows for the driver to feel exactly when the rear of the car wants to break loose. During cornering, the leaf springs and bushings bear the side load of the chassis. This can flex the leaf springs up to 2” side to side giving a very unsettled feel during cornering (not to mention the potential tire rub). The MOD panhard rod kit takes this side-loading off the leaf springs and applies it to the panhard rod. Since there is no more side movement, you get immediate response to your inputs without waiting to see how the car might react.

By including an adjustable rear sway bar, we’re getting the ability to further dial in the feel that we’re looking for. Adjusting the bar allows for finite tweaks to rear body roll and overall grip. The panhard rod gives you the ability to further tune the rear roll center. This effectively allows for raising and lowering rear end grip when hard cornering. Pair this with a set of our leaf springs and a good shock, and you have an awesome, affordable setup that installs easily and performs excellently.

This kit includes

• MOD Panhard Rod Assembly
• MOD Rear Sway Bar
• MOD Leaf Spring Plates

MOD Panhard Rod & Sway Bar Kit features:

• Vertical adjustment on both chassis and axle brackets for tuning
• Unique leaf spring plate design with panhard rod mount and sway bar mount
• Weld in chassis bracket
• Bolt in axle bracket with shock mount
• Sheetmetal drivers side spring plate with shock & sway bar mount
• Urethane sway bar bushings
• Turnbuckles for sway bar adjustment
• Adjustable sway bar for ultimate tune ability

Don’t panhard rods move the axle side to side and isn’t that bad?

Yes, the shorter the panhard rod is, the more the axle is thrust side to side. This is why we make our panhard rods 35” long. The misalignment is roughly 1/8”. Considering the flex of the tire and the previous 2” movement, it becomes a non-issue.

Why did you choose to do a panhard rod vs. a Watts link?

Watts links are wonderful but we took into consideration multiple aspects when deciding on the panhard rods, including price, function, installation, exhaust, roll center height and tuning ability. When installing a Watts, it is difficult to mount it low enough. The lower the lateral controls device (Watts of panhard rod), the lower the roll center. The lower the roll center, the more the car can lean on the outer spring driving the tire into the ground. Manufacturing a Watts link also is a lot more costly. This does not help the budget for the rest of the car.

Chassis tuning is also a little simpler with the panhard rod. To raise and lower the roll center (panhard rod or Watts pivot) dictates how much leverage the chassis has on the outer springs. However, when raising and lowering the roll center, you want to keep the arms level. If the panhard rod or Watts arms are not level, they can input a jacking force into the chassis (not always the best thing). This can free up or tighten up the car upon steering input. The panhard rod is the easiest to keep level when adjusting.

Running exhaust is also easier with the panhard rod assembly. Making our lives easy is an important part of having a good time with our cars.

The post 64-73 Mustang MOD 1 Panhard Rod & Sway Bar Kit appeared first on Mike Maier Inc.